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Jerking from a stop

This is a discussion on Jerking from a stop within the CVT, Sheaves & Wet Clutch forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Recently I’ve had a issue with the Wolverine jerking forward from a stop. I have the hunterworks sheave, slugs, rollers, purple spring, and slippery washers. ...

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    Paper Boy Daniel56's Avatar
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    Jerking from a stop

    Recently I’ve had a issue with the Wolverine jerking forward from a stop. I have the hunterworks sheave, slugs, rollers, purple spring, and slippery washers. Running 30 inch bkt with 2 inch lift. I have noticed after riding and testing that it only jerks forward after getting some speed up and braking hard to a stop. If I let it coast to a stop it starts forward just fine. I think I have noticed that if it gets in a sticky situation pulling the tires it doesn’t want to pull the tires very well. I have took the primary and secondary apart to clean and inspect. Everything seems fine but I very well could be missing something. Any advice or input would be appreciated guys.

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    Wholigan Budro2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel56 View Post
    Recently I’ve had a issue with the Wolverine jerking forward from a stop. I have the hunterworks sheave, slugs, rollers, purple spring, and slippery washers. Running 30 inch bkt with 2 inch lift. I have noticed after riding and testing that it only jerks forward after getting some speed up and braking hard to a stop. If I let it coast to a stop it starts forward just fine. I think I have noticed that if it gets in a sticky situation pulling the tires it doesn’t want to pull the tires very well. I have took the primary and secondary apart to clean and inspect. Everything seems fine but I very well could be missing something. Any advice or input would be appreciated guys.
    It’s a common issue with this style of CVT on the sudden stop, weather braking hard or having your tires in mud, snow, etc turning fast then getting off the gas quickly. The larger the tire the worse the issue! The secondary can’t return to a fully closed position that quick. Basically you are coming to a full stop, the secondary isn’t completely closed, then after movement ceases, the primary pops open as the weights return to there resting position and the belt then goes slack since the secondary isn’t fully closed. When you get back on the throttle it spins like it’s in neutral for an instance because no tension is on the belt. During this phase the secondary closes, taking up the slack and when the belt comes tight it lurches and maybe even chirps a little. If you can now predict that you have set it up for this scenario, put it in neutral, give it a bit of gas and let it turn freely, then after idling down put it in gear and go. In neutral the secondary will reset without the lurching. It’s really not hurting anything but it is annoying. Hunterworks does not recommend over 28” tires with the sheave at all, so it’s on you to deal with it. I only get that once in a great while with 28” tires. Best thing to do is always get on and off the throttle slowly. Get on the gas easy incase the belt has slack and if you stop quickly try to get off the brake and let it roll a bit before a complete stop so the secondary has opportunity to reset. I have noticed that when the sheaves are freshly serviced it never happens and later when it’s got some miles on it and dust inside it will get more problematic! Usually when mine does it, it is because it’s cold outside and I’ve just began my ride. The grease is not warmed up yet. For instance I’m rolling along say 10 15 mph in low, and just stop, even by rolling to a stop, put it in high and ease into the throttle and I’ll feel it hesitate and then grab. Once the CVT is warm it doesn’t do it again. Mine is a little more prone to it than some because I run a 1mm shim with the HW sheave so my belt is as low in the primary as I can get it without having problems. Next time you have it apart, leave the cover off, drive it 10 mph and roll to a stop while watching the secondary. Then do the same thing and stomp the brake. You’ll witness exactly what I tried to describe. With dirty sheaves you will see it mildly happening even while rolling to a stop.

    Also, if you installed the .5mm shim with the sheave and later put 30” tires on then you need to take it out or your belt will hit the cover. The shim is only for 27” and under tires!

    If it remains to problematic, and your adamant about 30” tires on it, then put the stock sheave back in with a 1mm shim and it will likely function better. It just won’t have nearly as good a starting ratio getting the tires going from a dead stop as it would with the HW sheave. You’ve lost approximately 16% of your gear ratio over stock going to 30” tires. 1mm of shim will give you back roughly 6% with the stock sheave.
    You just have to make compromises. You deal with it as best you can, or you go to smaller tires or you don’t use the sheave. Hope this helps!

    As a side note, I just saw in your picture that it appears you have portals? If this is the case, you probably don’t need the sheave!
    Last edited by Budro2; 11-13-2019 at 10:29 PM.
    2016 R SPEC SE
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    Hunterworks sheeve, 14gr weights, green spring, 1mm shim, modified CVT cover
    Razorback belt temperature gauge, Blowhole CVT fan, blowout port
    HW exhaust tip w/ stock arrester mod, PCV, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels,
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    Paper Boy Daniel56's Avatar
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    That makes perfect sense now thinking about it. It never did it for probably the first 150-200 miles on the clutch, but overtime getting a little dirty cause it to happen more often. I did notice the recommendation for no more than a 28” and might trade down to one. I just ran the 30” for clearance. The thought came up in my head that the secondary spring may have been getting hung up in a way coming off of acceleration that it couldn’t push back closed. So caught myself checking and cleaning that really good with no improvement. Would possibly a stiffer secondary spring help this issue?

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    Paper Boy Daniel56's Avatar
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    Oh and no portals installed, sorry

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    Supporting Vendor Hunterworks's Avatar
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    Where was the belt sitting in the secondary, was it sticking out the top or down in it?

    What wolverine is this?

    Did it change after the cleaning?

    Todd
    Last edited by Hunterworks; 11-14-2019 at 05:04 AM.
    blast likes this.
    Todd Eldridge
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel56 View Post
    That makes perfect sense now thinking about it. It never did it for probably the first 150-200 miles on the clutch, but overtime getting a little dirty cause it to happen more often. I did notice the recommendation for no more than a 28” and might trade down to one. I just ran the 30” for clearance. The thought came up in my head that the secondary spring may have been getting hung up in a way coming off of acceleration that it couldn’t push back closed. So caught myself checking and cleaning that really good with no improvement. Would possibly a stiffer secondary spring help this issue?
    For me changing to a stiffer spring did not resolve it! In fact I was testing 3 different springs when I noticed it the secondary not returning to a fully closed position while rolling to a stop. I had been changing between purple green and the stock spring and road testing with the cover off. Some of that road was gravel and dusty. The more I tested the worse it got regardless of which spring was in it. As soon as I serviced both sheaves ( which didn’t even look bad when I disassembled) the problem was cured and as far as rolling to a stop the secondary would close up every time. It can still be produced on a hard quick stop no matter what.

    I used the Tinkseal from HW when servicing the sheaves!
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 14gr weights, green spring, 1mm shim, modified CVT cover
    Razorback belt temperature gauge, Blowhole CVT fan, blowout port
    HW exhaust tip w/ stock arrester mod, PCV, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels,
    Eibach springs
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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    Paper Boy Daniel56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunterworks View Post
    Where was the belt sitting in the secondary, was it sticking out the top or down in it?

    What wolverine is this?

    Did it change after the cleaning?

    Todd
    This afternoon after work I will tear it back down and run it with the cover off to see where the belt is riding when I stop. I feel like it’s stuck down but I could be wrong. I have a 2016 wolverine rspec se. And I couldn’t tell any real difference with cleaning it

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    Paper Boy Daniel56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Budro2 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel56 View Post
    That makes perfect sense now thinking about it. It never did it for probably the first 150-200 miles on the clutch, but overtime getting a little dirty cause it to happen more often. I did notice the recommendation for no more than a 28” and might trade down to one. I just ran the 30” for clearance. The thought came up in my head that the secondary spring may have been getting hung up in a way coming off of acceleration that it couldn’t push back closed. So caught myself checking and cleaning that really good with no improvement. Would possibly a stiffer secondary spring help this issue?
    For me changing to a stiffer spring did not resolve it! In fact I was testing 3 different springs when I noticed it the secondary not returning to a fully closed position while rolling to a stop. I had been changing between purple green and the stock spring and road testing with the cover off. Some of that road was gravel and dusty. The more I tested the worse it got regardless of which spring was in it. As soon as I serviced both sheaves ( which didn’t even look bad when I disassembled) the problem was cured and as far as rolling to a stop the secondary would close up every time. It can still be produced on a hard quick stop no matter what.

    I used the Tinkseal from HW when servicing the sheaves!
    Thank you for the info. Saves me time of switching springs around. I’m gonna take it back down this afternoon and make sure I have it all as clean as I can

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    Wholigan Budro2's Avatar
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    If you have your stock tires, you might try an experiment! Assuming it’s not closing up all the way by rolling to a stop with the 30s, throw on the stock ones and see if that changes. The big tires probably slow up faster and certainly the higher gearing they create would equate to fewer revolutions of secondary in the same distance preventing it from being able to get back to fully closed. You should definitely have some belt exposed above the secondary if it’s getting fully reset!

    Good luck!
    2016 R SPEC SE
    EMP bumpers
    Viper Elite 4000 winch
    Super ATV flip up windshield
    Sway bar delete
    Tusk visor
    Fabricated quick detach headache rack w/ optional storage rack
    Hunterworks sheeve, 14gr weights, green spring, 1mm shim, modified CVT cover
    Razorback belt temperature gauge, Blowhole CVT fan, blowout port
    HW exhaust tip w/ stock arrester mod, PCV, ais block off plate
    28x10x14 CST Clinchers 14x7 STI HD3 black gloss wheels,
    Eibach springs
    Seizmik strike mirrors

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    Supernova Tripplec's Avatar
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    This occurs as well when people PLOW with their machines. The belt stops high when plowing hard and is stopped by the bank of snow built up or driver let go of the throttle. The belt is still at the position as BUDRO2 has indicated up top here. Happens on Kingquads as both of these machines run constantly tensioned CVT's. Not the snap and grab others use. I know you're not plowing but when any of you do expect this to happen when you are really working it and then you stop of force by the heavy pushed load and don't move any further. ALL NORMAL !!
    Budro2 and MORSNO like this.
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