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water pump seal!

This is a discussion on water pump seal! within the Engine forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; I have a 2016 wolverine with mechanical seal leaking in the water pump.There is a bit of end play on the shaft with the seal ...

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    Spectator
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    water pump seal!

    I have a 2016 wolverine with mechanical seal leaking in the water pump.There is a bit of end play on the shaft with the seal leaking. I'm wondering if this is normal and should there be any end play there or not. trying to determine if the bearing is gone on the shaft. Thanks for any help

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    Veteran kdt1970's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer View Post
    I have a 2016 wolverine with mechanical seal leaking in the water pump.There is a bit of end play on the shaft with the seal leaking. I'm wondering if this is normal and should there be any end play there or not. trying to determine if the bearing is gone on the shaft. Thanks for any help
    If it leaks at all or you suspect an issue. Do yourself a favor and replace it. People have reported water pump failures with the 708 engines..
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    Worse thing about the water pump issues is getting to it. I believe the engine has to be completely unbolted.

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    He is past the access issue if he is talking about the bearing, cause it is already out. I would say your bearing is gone and should be replaced as well as mechanical seal and a careful press in job as directed by manual with attention to torque values of reassembly. Manual shows bottoming the seal as well with 0 clearance. If you do not have the manual there is a free download somewhere. How many miles/hours? While you are in there are you doing the balancer sprocket nut?
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    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS rad guards, Autometer Temp Gauge, Alba Racing Reflash, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/man switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 28" 9 & 11 BH 2.0, 4000# Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harn, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    He is past the access issue if he is talking about the bearing, cause it is already out. I would say your bearing is gone and should be replaced as well as mechanical seal and a careful press in job as directed by manual with attention to torque values of reassembly. Manual shows bottoming the seal as well with 0 clearance. If you do not have the manual there is a free download somewhere. How many miles/hours? While you are in there are you doing the balancer sprocket nut?
    Never thought about whether it was already out or not. Just that it is a pain so do it right once.

    If engine has to be removed from it's mountings best to fix anything that is at all iffy. After removing the engine to get to it you would not want to have to do it again because you skimped.

    Not sure if the bearing really even controls the end play. That is usually how it was pressed together that controls that and usually would not wear in that direction excessively unless it was really trashed and then it would have more issues that are noticeable than just end play and they would be obvious. Yes if the bearing was shot end play would increase but other signs would be evident most likely.
    Last edited by danielplace1962; 11-19-2019 at 09:28 AM.

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    well just to let everone know, took it all apart and found shaft worn were it sits in the bearing which caused seals to fail,replaceing it all not talking any chances.

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    Quote Originally Posted by homer View Post
    well just to let everone know, took it all apart and found shaft worn were it sits in the bearing which caused seals to fail,replaceing it all not talking any chances.
    How many miles homer?
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    Replaced decompression spring, dip stick, repaired header pipe at 1500 miles, new one at 5500 miles,
    top end rebuild at 3500 (new rings and valve seals) for excess oil consumption, tie rod ends at 5000.

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    Remember to just bottom it out with a careful press on inner race not on outer race. If it was not pressed in correctly to begin with, it can cause drag, wear and premature failure. How many miles indeed? Maybe a Friday afternoon assembly.....
    2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS rad guards, Autometer Temp Gauge, Alba Racing Reflash, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/man switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 28" 9 & 11 BH 2.0, 4000# Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harn, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam

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    Spectator
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    parts on order. very delicate seal install forsure but we can handle it.thier is just over 22000 km on it so cain't complane.

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    Quote Originally Posted by homer View Post
    parts on order. very delicate seal install forsure but we can handle it.thier is just over 22000 km on it so cain't complane.
    That is 13670.166 miles are you sure that number is correct.
    2017 Wolverine R-Spec SE
    2019 Wolverine X4

    2017 Super Atv - Front Window
    2017 Kolpin - Rear Window
    2017 Kolpin - Side Mirrors
    2017 Ryco - Utah Street Legal Kit
    2017 Yamaha - LED taillights with Reverse
    2017 Hunterworks - AIS Block Off Plate
    2017 NGK - Laser Iridium spark plug
    2019 Yamaha - Windshield
    2019 Yamaha - Rear View Mirror
    2019 Yamaha - Roof
    2019 Emp - Side Mirrors
    2019 SuperAtv - Rear Window.
    2019 Ryco - Utah Street Legal Kit
    2019 NGK - Laser Iridium spark plugs

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