Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec
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Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec

This is a discussion on Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec within the Wolverine How To forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; I tried lubing the grease fittings on my RSpec back hubs. Can't get a fitting on them because the A arms are in the way. ...

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Thread: Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec

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    Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec

    I tried lubing the grease fittings on my RSpec back hubs. Can't get a fitting on them because the A arms are in the way. Called the Yamaha dealer and the Shop Manager said I needed to take the wheels off and then grease the hubs. Pointed out to him that the fittings face in not out. He went a looked at one in his shop and came back and said that he was not impressed with the placement of the fittings at all as his mechanic couldn't get a grease gun on them either. So he says i have to disconnect the A arms and then do it. Seems like a huge PITA. Any one come up with a better way to do it?

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    If you make the suspension compress enough you can get to the lower A-arm grease fitting and get a grease gun on them. You can do this by putting close to 600 lbs. in the bed, or have 3 good size adults stand in the bed, or use a good set of ratchet straps and go from the lower a-arm to the frame under the bed and tighten as tight as you can.

    There are numerous old threads complaining about this same problem with various ways to grease them.
    Tracen8r, Mountainman and atkbike like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountainman View Post
    I tried lubing the grease fittings on my RSpec back hubs. Can't get a fitting on them because the A arms are in the way. Called the Yamaha dealer and the Shop Manager said I needed to take the wheels off and then grease the hubs. Pointed out to him that the fittings face in not out. He went a looked at one in his shop and came back and said that he was not impressed with the placement of the fittings at all as his mechanic couldn't get a grease gun on them either. So he says i have to disconnect the A arms and then do it. Seems like a huge PITA. Any one come up with a better way to do it?
    If that is what your dealer and his technician told you, I would not even take a little red wagon in to them to work on. Run, don't walk as fast as you can away from them. As PapaSkeeta said, there are at least a couple different ways to do it. What I will do in the futyre is what Jimclemjr did and modify the bushing bolt. He gets an A+ on that. What I do is remove the rear wheels, disconnect the rear sway bar (On both sides) then remove the top shock mount bolt and pull the shock toward the outside. Then use a ratchet strap to lift up the lower A arm like PapaSkeeta says.
    Last edited by Tracen8r; 08-14-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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    I just had the original bushings replaced at 5800 mi. I don’t think I ever got any grease in when I tried to lube them.
    The mountains are calling and I must go. 2016 RSpec Spec Ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tracen8r View Post
    If that is what your dealer and his technician told you, I would not even take a little red wagon in to them to work on. Run, don't walk as fast as you can away from them. . . .
    Yeah, those were my thoughts exactly. His response was very stunning. He said he was familiar with the Rhino and their grease fittings face out. Said he had never looked at the Wolverine until I asked. Kind of made me wonder what they actually do when you take it in for service. I try to do most of the servicing myself because we live in the boonies and he is the closest dealer- 2 hours away. I had to take it in for some recall issues and that is when I asked him.
    Fortunately, I downloaded the manual that a member here made available and it has been a big help. (Not so much with the hub lubricating,though, lol.)
    MORSNO and atkbike like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    If you make the suspension compress enough you can get to the lower A-arm grease fitting and get a grease gun on them. You can do this by putting close to 600 lbs. in the bed, or have 3 good size adults stand in the bed, or use a good set of ratchet straps and go from the lower a-arm to the frame under the bed and tighten as tight as you can.

    There are numerous old threads complaining about this same problem with various ways to grease them.
    Clearly I need to work on my search skills, PapaSkeeta. Am going to try the 45 degree zerks on the top and get the needle fitting for the bottom. If I understand you and others correctly, the 45's on top are good to go and the A arm won't damage them but the same is not true for the bottom zerks. Need the needle tip for those.

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    Here's $.02---get a needle tip for your grease gun and you can probably get it aligned good enough to lube. IF the thing would take the grease, but we do not know if you have a Gen 1 due to no signature but assume you do cause of this forum category. And if it is a 3 year old unit it has probably never been lubed so you wasting the time you should spend taking it apart, marking the bushings, cleaning the whole setup, grooving the shafts and then relocate bushings top to bottom and bottom to top and clock the bushings 90 deg. Put it together and before torqueing it finally, lube it then. It should not take more than a couple hours for all that. I can do it quicker with floor jack and cordless impact and because I have a little experience and that is what I encourage all to get.
    BTW- if it your first time put a retainer strap on the hubs so the axles do not come out, they shouldn't but just to give first timers a little confidence I would recommend it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountainman View Post
    Clearly I need to work on my search skills, PapaSkeeta. Am going to try the 45 degree zerks on the top and get the needle fitting for the bottom. If I understand you and others correctly, the 45's on top are good to go and the A arm won't damage them but the same is not true for the bottom zerks. Need the needle tip for those.
    You made need to use a Nylon (or hard plastic) washer on the top, under the 45 deg. fitting, to make it line up properly. With the suspension compressed you can get a regular grease gun fitting on the bottom grease fitting, still not easy but it can be done.

    Another option is buy the Super ATV Hi Clearance lower A-arms and then they don't interfere with getting a grease gun on the lower grease fitting at all, or do as I finally did after all of the aggravation and drill and tap the end of the bolt head and put a grease fitting in it. There are other posts on doing this.
    Last edited by PapaSkeeta; 08-14-2019 at 05:15 PM.
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    It’s literally a 15 min job per side with a cordless impact gun to buzz off the rear tire, 2 shock bolts, remove the shock, grab the hub and pull it all the way up and block it, grease and go back together. If they don’t want to take grease just loosen the 2 knuckle bolts. Any time I’m already close while inspecting or servicing brakes I do it. Don’t get mad just get a beer and spend a few extra minutes!
    Just one more way if you haven’t heard this method yet.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimclemjr View Post
    Here's $.02---get a needle tip for your grease gun and you can probably get it aligned good enough to lube. IF the thing would take the grease, but we do not know if you have a Gen 1 due to no signature but assume you do cause of this forum category. And if it is a 3 year old unit it has probably never been lubed so you wasting the time you should spend taking it apart, marking the bushings, cleaning the whole setup, grooving the shafts and then relocate bushings top to bottom and bottom to top and clock the bushings 90 deg. Put it together and before torqueing it finally, lube it then. It should not take more than a couple hours for all that. I can do it quicker with floor jack and cordless impact and because I have a little experience and that is what I encourage all to get.
    BTW- if it your first time put a retainer strap on the hubs so the axles do not come out, they shouldn't but just to give first timers a little confidence I would recommend it.
    OK, this is good info. My Wolverine is a 2016 RSpec, 2/4WD as mentioned in original post. Don't know how to tell if Gen 1 or II. I have ordered the needle tip that PapaSkeeta showed in one of his threads. Will give it a try and if not i have the 45 degree zerks for the top; lots of ratchet straps for the bottom.
    What is the purpose of exchanging the bushings top to bottom; why do you groove the shafts? How do you do that? With what tool?
    Finally, what is the purpose of clocking them 90 degrees?

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