This is a discussion on Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec within the Wolverine How To forums, part of the Yamaha Wolverine Gen 1 708 cc SxS category; Yes sir. You didn't do much. Dang it. The bolts just keep it in place like a axle through the axle. Lol. You do have ...
Yes sir. You didn't do much. Dang it.
The bolts just keep it in place like a axle through the axle. Lol. You do have to take the cups off each end and slide the inner bushings out of the arm and clean and lube all the that up and reassemble.
You were close.
2016 Wolverine R-spec EPS- Camo, , JBS CVT grind, 16 gr OD, Purple, slugs, JBS mudguards, Autometer Temp Gauge, Alba Racing Reflash, SATV A-arms & DIY stick guards, Flip wshield, Auto tie rod ends, Dual batts/manual switch, ALS defeat, Method 14" B-locks, 27" 9 & 11Maxxis Vipr,4000 Moto Max winch, Yama trunk, 20" single row roof light bar, Rigid D pods on bumper, 3"rear cage lower, harness bar and 4 pt harnesses, JBS/Eibach springs, SPAL fan, ACM doors, Lexan moonroof, Pyle rear cam
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PS GEN 2 are the X2 or X4 twin cylinder builds. Gen 1 is the single banger 708cc Ok...
Greasing seem convoluted. I know my dealer did mine. The found one zerk busted off and had to order one it to fit. If I couldn't get grease in I think I'd unbolt the arm (one at a time), knock the bushing out and grease everything. Bolt, bushing in & out and knock it back together. I did that on my old KQ once only, everything was rusted when I took it apart then. As for pushing grease there has to be an out or you're fitting with a lot of pressure with knowhere for the air or access grease to come out. Nothing gain by the fittings being there. Maybe they're are end cap seals like I had which will loosed with the pivot bolts broken free and backed off.
2017 Wolverine RSPec SE
Belleville, Ont. Canada
BearClaw HTR 27 inch tires
Half windshield
Roof
Aluminum Under armor
Yamaha Warn 3500lb Winch & Synthetic rope
LED Headlights, Yellow Light Bar
There is a place for it to come out. The seal plates at the ends will free flow out anything you can push there. A out hole anywhere else would be useless as it would just blow grease out the hole and never force it through the bushings. The problem is the tight fit of the bushings you are trying to push the grease through is small clearances. This is why getting to the fittings is really a waste of time as to be able to get out all the old grease, contamination and grit from them completely and get new grease on them 100% that will only happen by complete disassembly. Pushing the grease through from the fitting takes a long very high pressure push and it will bleed the grease right out the end cups but as you will see it comes out a small spot on the seal not 360° around so you know it isn't pushing out all the old and replacing with new. Yes better than not greasing at all but if you want them to last your looking at complete disassembly of those bushings. Clean it well and grease it good and it doesn't really take that long to do.
I've found these rubber bushings fit so tight that most the movement happens between the bolt and the sleeve.
Good judgment comes from experience, most of which comes from bad judgement
2016 R spec Black
Superwinch Terra 45
27x9r12 Bearclaw HTR's on STI HD beadlocks
Bunch of LED lights
Hunterworks PCV
AIS delete
DIY exhaust tip
JBS Eibach spring kit
2" Perfex Lift
Sway Bar Delete
Hunterworks greaseless sheave
14g/.5mm shim/Purple secondary
Slugged wet clutch
Super ATV EZ steer power steering
Super ATV High clearance rear A-arms
Chopped cage
good to know there is an out flow hole for the grease. I did try greasing once but the pressure on my hand grease arm was so hard without movement I had to wonder. The pressure locked the gun tip onto the zerk nipple and I couldn't get it off. I don't plenty of car and other vehicle fittings over a lot of decades and can't every recall one so hard to pump grease into. Especially that its new as well.
2017 Wolverine RSPec SE
Belleville, Ont. Canada
BearClaw HTR 27 inch tires
Half windshield
Roof
Aluminum Under armor
Yamaha Warn 3500lb Winch & Synthetic rope
LED Headlights, Yellow Light Bar
No doubt. It isn't easy to push it through the tight clearances. There isn't much cavity anywhere just starts in center and tries to push it out the bushings towards each end. If you keep the pressure as much as you can for a while you will see it will push through. Maybe a gun that builds more pressure. The long lever type may be needed.
I have my sway bar removed so this is a bit easier for me. But i place a jack under one of the rear tires and jack it up as high as it will go. This will compress the suspension on one side enough to reach the grease fitting. Lower jack and repeat on the other side. Piece of cake.
17 R Spec EPS
Yamaha half windshield
28 10 14 carnivores on sti hd9 wheels
YXZ seats
Boss 14 inch soundbar
Perfex 2 inch lift
Konstruktor Doors
Hunterworks clutching
16 Grizzly EPS
It is worse.
They didn't screw up the dipstick really they screwed up and built engines that burn oil.
The top level stayed the same they just made the low level half as far down the stick. It wasn't because the original low level was too low. It was because at the rate some were burning oil the low marks would not have as much extra oil to burn before you were too low.
They are just now 4 years later still trying to fix those oil burners.
It is because they aren't even a Yamaha engine. No mention of that in any printed material Yamaha provides to customers that your Yamaha side by side actually has a Subaru engine in it.
Last edited by danielplace1962; 11-06-2019 at 12:55 PM.