Lubricating the back hubs on 2016 Wolverine RSpec

[danielplace1962]

Yes sir. You didn't do much. Dang it.

The bolts just keep it in place like a axle through the axle. Lol. You do have to take the cups off each end and slide the inner bushings out of the arm and clean and lube all the that up and reassemble.

You were close.

[jimclemjr]

OH, come on. You could have waited a day or so before you shot me down, lol. That's kinda funny. Seriously, thanks for that.

Euphoria Killer!

[Tripplec]

@Mountainman

At top, goto FORUM ACTIONS - EDIT PROFILE and you'll see Edit Signature in the list. OK

GetErDone....

Cheers

PS GEN 2 are the X2 or X4 twin cylinder builds. Gen 1 is the single banger 708cc Ok...

Greasing seem convoluted. I know my dealer did mine. The found one zerk busted off and had to order one it to fit. If I couldn't get grease in I think I'd unbolt the arm (one at a time), knock the bushing out and grease everything. Bolt, bushing in & out and knock it back together. I did that on my old KQ once only, everything was rusted when I took it apart then. As for pushing grease there has to be an out or you're fitting with a lot of pressure with knowhere for the air or access grease to come out. Nothing gain by the fittings being there. Maybe they're are end cap seals like I had which will loosed with the pivot bolts broken free and backed off.

[danielplace1962]

As for pushing grease there has to be an out or you're fitting with a lot of pressure with knowhere for the air or access grease to come out. Nothing gain by the fittings being there. Maybe they're are end cap seals like I had which will loosed with the pivot bolts broken free and backed off.

There is a place for it to come out. The seal plates at the ends will free flow out anything you can push there. A out hole anywhere else would be useless as it would just blow grease out the hole and never force it through the bushings. The problem is the tight fit of the bushings you are trying to push the grease through is small clearances. This is why getting to the fittings is really a waste of time as to be able to get out all the old grease, contamination and grit from them completely and get new grease on them 100% that will only happen by complete disassembly. Pushing the grease through from the fitting takes a long very high pressure push and it will bleed the grease right out the end cups but as you will see it comes out a small spot on the seal not 360° around so you know it isn't pushing out all the old and replacing with new. Yes better than not greasing at all but if you want them to last your looking at complete disassembly of those bushings. Clean it well and grease it good and it doesn't really take that long to do.

[Jraoffroad]

I've found these rubber bushings fit so tight that most the movement happens between the bolt and the sleeve.

[Tripplec]

good to know there is an out flow hole for the grease. I did try greasing once but the pressure on my hand grease arm was so hard without movement I had to wonder. The pressure locked the gun tip onto the zerk nipple and I couldn't get it off. I don't plenty of car and other vehicle fittings over a lot of decades and can't every recall one so hard to pump grease into. Especially that its new as well.

[danielplace1962]

No doubt. It isn't easy to push it through the tight clearances. There isn't much cavity anywhere just starts in center and tries to push it out the bushings towards each end. If you keep the pressure as much as you can for a while you will see it will push through. Maybe a gun that builds more pressure. The long lever type may be needed.

[swampdonkeyvt]

I have my sway bar removed so this is a bit easier for me. But i place a jack under one of the rear tires and jack it up as high as it will go. This will compress the suspension on one side enough to reach the grease fitting. Lower jack and repeat on the other side. Piece of cake.

[danielplace1962]

I have my sway bar removed so this is a bit easier for me. But i place a jack under one of the rear tires and jack it up as high as it will go. This will compress the suspension on one side enough to reach the grease fitting. Lower jack and repeat on the other side. Piece of cake.

That is always the easy part. Now try to get some grease to push through with any appreciable amount making it all the way through is the challenge.

[danielplace1962]

I used to think that Yamaha machines were bullet proof. Their sleds seem to run forever. My Grizzly seemed to make the case for that as well. My first recall for the Wolverine, however, was because the dipstick they designed was not calibrated correctly and could cause engine failure because of false readings (according to Yamaha). That made me reconsider. How do you screw up a dipstick?
We live in the Boundary/Okanagan area which has some very hot summers. My Wolverine started overheating frequently. The thermostat was completely bent out of shape. I have never seen a thermostat so badly damaged. And it cost $90 to replace. As part of the mitigation process they told me to remove the protective plate from the front of the rad to aid in cooling. Another poor design apparently.
But I'm still taking it up into the mountains tomorrow, lol.

It is worse.

They didn't screw up the dipstick really they screwed up and built engines that burn oil.

The top level stayed the same they just made the low level half as far down the stick. It wasn't because the original low level was too low. It was because at the rate some were burning oil the low marks would not have as much extra oil to burn before you were too low.

They are just now 4 years later still trying to fix those oil burners.

It is because they aren't even a Yamaha engine. No mention of that in any printed material Yamaha provides to customers that your Yamaha side by side actually has a Subaru engine in it.