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How much electrical stuff can you run?

This is a discussion on How much electrical stuff can you run? within the Audio, Lighting and Electrical forums, part of the General Discussions category; I just installed a new light bar and it got me to thinking how much can you really run off one of these? With my ...

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Thread: How much electrical stuff can you run?

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    How much electrical stuff can you run?

    I just installed a new light bar and it got me to thinking how much can you really run off one of these? With my stereo and 50" light bar on at idle I'm showing about 13.8 volts, which I think is okay? It goes up slightly when I turn it off, as expected. I would think it'd be a good idea to turn those off while running the winch.

    I can wire stuff up fine but when it comes to figuring out loading that's above my head lol!
    Last edited by Wi_Rider; 03-28-2016 at 10:37 PM.
    You can't put a price tag on fun!

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    I think I remember looking up the Viking's stock output being 36.4A @ 14V. So, the charging capacity there is approximately 510 Watts. Subtract the power draw of all components from 510, including the running devices like the ECM, display, etc. As long as you still have a positive number, you are not drawing more than you can supply from the stock stator. Now, you mention measuring voltage while idling with your lights on and stereo on. I don't normally recommend this as the best way to test, but in theory, you could take a voltage measurement at the battery while you have all of your accessories on and the engine is running, and have someone else start running the winch(with a load on it-like actually winching the machine up a hill). If the battery voltage stays above 12.7-12.8V, you should be fine to use all accessories at once, for short periods of time. If the voltage drops below about 12.7, you are pulling from the battery, and won't last long before you drain it.

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    Those numbers are just what the display on the dash was giving.
    You can't put a price tag on fun!

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    The Yamaha Service Manual on page 2-9 says the output of the Charging System / AC Magneto is 14.0 volts, 35 amps at 5,000 rpm.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    The Yamaha Service Manual on page 2-9 says the output of the Charging System / AC Magneto is 14.0 volts, 35 amps at 5,000 rpm.
    Man, I really need to spend the cash and get a service manual. Do you have a paper copy or a cd w/ PDF's?

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    I have the Yamaha Service Manual paper copy (Book), part no. LIT-11616-29-03. It is 3/4" thick but fairly thin pages so it is a lot of pages, probably in the ballpark of 400 pages (just an estimate). Can't easily tell how many pages since pages are only numbered with a Chapter Number and a dash number.

    I ordered it from Partzilla.com for $59 plus shipping for total of around $68. Took about 2 weeks to get, per Partzilla it had to ship from Japan to them, then to me. Partzilla didn't list it on their website but if you call and give them the part number they can get it and any other Yamaha Genuine Accessory.

    I imagine some other online discounters can do the same, I just happen to use Partzilla.com for most things because their prices are very competitive, they price match (after the sale), and their shipping is only 2 days to me.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaSkeeta View Post
    The Yamaha Service Manual on page 2-9 says the output of the Charging System / AC Magneto is 14.0 volts, 35 amps at 5,000 rpm.
    What that means is you ain't getting crap for charge amps at idle. Probably 2-4 amps max. If you run a ton of stuff, most people add a second battery, even on the ATVs. Yamaha makes a second battery setup, not sure where it goes, nor the size. The batteries will be wired in parallel. If you want you can get fancy and put in an isolator so your starting battery never drains, but both batteries charge. You can then use both batteries to start if needed. If you want mega juice you can put a bigger battery in the bed, deep cycle for long run times.

    We do this on boats all the time.

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    Moon Shiner
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    I think that second battery kit puts one under the seat.

    The battery isolators are also available under the RV section at places like JC Whitney etc. I still have one lying around from my younger days with speaker setups.
    They do work.

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    I have plenty wired to mine, stereo,amp, 50in light bar, 10in light bar, 2-4in light pods, interior lights, winch,still planning on adding a rear winch, and a few other electrical goodies, I have had it all on but the winch and the voltage dropped from 14 to 13.9 and that's at a idle probably wouldn't drop at all at speed, I just don't run it all at once especially with the winch, even at night u will not run over 1 light bar at a time, I cut them off if I have to winch

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    You are only concerned about constant draws. Stuff like winches are no-ops until you use them and clearly but doing power management like walters is doing keeps you out of trouble.

    You have to have enough juice to run the computer and the FI, that is the key. And of course to start :-), another important time in the day... :-) That is why the isolator is very cool, and if you get the one that is also a combiner you are well covered. Not sure how many amp-hours these mini-batteries provide.

    Also, not sure how the main circuits are fused, but if you run too much though the stock ignition bus that will be trouble as well.
    Last edited by inetmug; 03-30-2016 at 04:07 PM.

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