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Help with wiring, 12v supply, fuse block

This is a discussion on Help with wiring, 12v supply, fuse block within the Audio, Lighting and Electrical forums, part of the General Discussions category; Originally Posted by ErikTheRed The Nilight harness power is connected at the fuse block. The harness wires that go to the switch, I'm using those ...

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Thread: Help with wiring, 12v supply, fuse block

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    The Nilight harness power is connected at the fuse block. The harness wires that go to the switch, I'm using those to power and ground the lightbar and whip switches (chained together). I will also use those to ground the dome light switch. I tied into the 12v aux wire to power the lower light pin on all three switches.
    That will work, the only difference is that you have 12v going to the (+) (12v, In) side of your Light Bar Switch and Whip Light Switch even when the key is off. Yes, if you used the 12v aux. to power the switches then it would also be triggering the relays, but to trigger the relays only uses milliamps of power and once the relay is triggered the power is supplied directly from the fuse block to the light bar/whip light bypassing the switch.

    Glad you got it working. Tested it all yet?
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
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    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
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  2. #32
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    Except for wire ties and some cleanup, yeah, I FINALLY got it done. And it all works!! 6 hours yesterday and another 6 today. When I started I thought it would be a fairly simple job. NOPE. Took 12 hours. But it all works and looks pretty damn decent. I wish I knew a simple way to upload pics from my phone, I'd post a few of my amature handiwork. Your "crude" schematic was AWESOME. I printed a copy and had it taped to the fender for quick (and constant) reference. It was custom for my application rather than a generic schematic form the internet and was a HUGE help. Thank you!!

    You said above that since I used the 12v aux circuit to power the lower switch lights, that this would also energize the relay. I thought the lower right pin on the switch was only for the lower switch light, and that the other "power" pin (middle left pin) was the power to energize the relay, and the lower left pin was to send the power to energize the realy. I'm not really sure why I thought this, I just did. LOL Anyway, say I were to clip the wire from the 12v aux circuit. Would the switch still work to activate the device, and I only lose my lower switch light? Would it still get the power it needs from that middle left pin? Or would my switches be dead? I only ask because I used one of those janky clamp-type wire taps and I don't wanna rely on it. If I only lose a lower switch light on the trail, no biggie.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    You said above that since I used the 12v aux circuit to power the lower switch lights, that this would also energize the relay.
    Maybe I didn't make it very clear, what I meant was that if you used, the 12v aux circuit to both power the switch and power the lower light in the switch, then the aux. circuit would also be powering the relay, but only to trigger the relay.

    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    I thought the lower right pin on the switch was only for the lower switch light, (That is correct) and that the other "power" pin (middle left pin) was the power to energize the relay (this pin is 12v in to the switch), and the lower left pin was to send the power to energize the relay (this pin is 12v out from the switch).
    Quote Originally Posted by ErikTheRed View Post
    Anyway, say I were to clip the wire from the 12v aux circuit. Would the switch still work to activate the device, and I only lose my lower switch light? Would it still get the power it needs from that middle left pin? Or would my switches be dead? I only ask because I used one of those janky clamp-type wire taps and I don't wanna rely on it. If I only lose a lower switch light on the trail, no biggie.
    From what I understand, with you using the Nilight harness with one (+) end connected to the Fuse Block (hot all the time) and the other end connected to the "12v in" terminal on the switch and if you "clipped" the wire going from your 12 aux circuit to the switch (connected to the lower right terminal (lower LED in switch)) then you would only loose the lower LED lights in the switches.

    When you first started asking about this I thought a drawing might come in handy where you could have it beside you to refer to. Makes it a lot easier to draw everything out on paper when you start planning to wire a few relays, switches, and devices in at once. After you get a few wires run they all start to seem like they run together all over the place and it is hard to make sure they all are correct, unless your going by a schematic. Plus the drawing is a good thing to keep if you ever have to troubleshoot something a few years from now, you can refer to it to see exactly how you wired it.
    erik likes this.
    2016 R Spec EPS, Realtree, 29x9x14 & 29x11x14 Tusk Warthogs on ITP SS112
    Hunterworks Sheave, Greaseless 18 gr wts (did have 16 gr.), Purple Sec. Spring, Wet Clutch Slugs
    Painted Control/Gear Symbols, Bad Dog Side Mirrors, EMP Panoramic Rear Mirror,
    Interior Overhead LED lights, Blue Floorboard LED Lights, Custom Side Rain Curtains
    Radiator Mud Guards, Yamaha Alum. Front Diff. Guard, Perfex 2" Lift, Winch,
    Grease Fitting Modification for Lower Rear A-Arm, Koso Coolant Temp. Gauge,
    RAM Mounts for GPS & 8" Tablet, Under Seat Storage Box, Folding Windshield,
    EMP Front/ Rear Bumpers, 100W 17" LED light, 18W Rear Flood LEDs 2x
    Great Day Gun Rack, Stebel Air Horn, Adjustable Driver's Seat, Turn Signals,
    Street Legal/TN Tag

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  5. #34
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    Yessir, I used the 12v aux circuit ONLY for the bottom right pin on the switches, for the lower light to be illuminated only when the key is on. Otherwise the lower lights would have never turned off since the Nilight harness is straight to the fuse block-- and thats the power I used for the middle left switch pins. So now all my accessories work (light bar, interior, and whip lights) whether the key is on or not, but the lower switch lights will only come on when the key is on. This isn't exactly how I first imagined it but Im perfectly happy with it as-is.

    I folded up my copy of your diagram and I'll keep it with all my wiring goodies in the shop for future reference. I can't tell you how helpful that handy little piece of paper was for this project. Thanks again for all your help!!! I'm sure Ill pick your brain again soon!
    PapaSkeeta and erik like this.

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